Friday, October 19, 2007

Foods To Feed

GRAINS:

Whole wheat, multi-grained, carrot, nut or corn breads; noodles, spaghetti, ravioli, macaroni or other pastas; all types of rice, preferably brown, oatmeal, Cream of Wheat or Cream of Rice, cook cereals, low or no salt pretzels, lo salt crackers, including belba toast; other low sugar cereals such as Cheerios, Life, Chex, Kix, Berry Kix, etc.

DAIRY GROUP:

Many parrots are not receiving enough calcium in their diets because owners do not give their birds any foods from this group. As with people, calcium is very important. Remember that too much cheese can cause constipation. Birds love their cheese mixed with other foods such as in macaroni and cheese and pizza.

Cottage cheese, yogurts with or without fruit, eggs (any style with shells included, avoid frying, can make in the microwave).

NUTS:

All kinds of nuts except for acorns and horse chestnuts are good for birds. They should be unsalted. Due to the high fat content use with moderation. Peanuts, almonds, walnuts, filberts, Brazil nuts, pine nuts, pistachio nuts, etc. are all excellent. Peanut butter and other butters made from nuts are a great treat!

VEGETABLES:

Vegetables contain vitamins and minerals which are essential to good health. They should be washed thoroughly to remove any chemicals on their skins. They can be served fresh, steamed, baked in a sauce such as tomato sauce or they can be boiled. Frozen vegetables should be warmed. You can serve them one at a time or you can mix several different types together. Some people even serve them with a sprinkle of garlic or onion powder, other herbs, or even some Parmesan cheese. They are an excellent place to add powdered vitamins and minerals. Canned vegetables are high in sodium and they should not be used.

Red peppers, green peppers, yellow peppers, jalapeño peppers, and other types of peppers are okay. Cucumbers, tomatoes or tomato sauce, green peas, pole beans, waxed beans, sugar snap peas, green beans, peas in pods, corn (on the cob or as kernels) acorn squash, butternut squash, pumpkin - all squash should be cooked. Dark green cabbage, cauliflower, kale, broccoli, cauliflower, spinach (fresh frozen or low slat canned). Baby carrots (raw or cooked), carrots, beets, sweet potatoes (cooked) potatoes all varieties, yams, celery, turnips, Brussels sprouts including the stalks. Zucchini, chard, alfalfa sprouts, bean sprouts, kidney beans (cooked, pinto beans, navy beans and all other beans should be cooked. Lettuce, in moderation since it contains a high water content, and other salad greens. (May cause watery droppings or color changes in droppings).

FRUIT:

Because of the high water content in fruit your bird's droppings may become more watery. If the bird receives a lot of fruit he may not be drinking as much. Avoid any pits in the fruit, and the area around the pits. Fruit should be washed thoroughly and any bruising or discolorations should be cut away first before serving.

Pomegranates, figs, grapes (all kinds). Mangos, all melons, papaya, kiwi, raisins, citrus fruit such as oranges, lemons or limes. Apples (all varieties, though birds may have a preference of one over the other, avoid the seeds). Applesauce, and blackberries, bananas, blueberries, strawberries, cranberries, raspberries, currants, cantaloupe, honeydew, water melon, apricots (no pits, remove area around pit that is discolored too), cherries, plums, (no pits), pears (no seeds), peaches (avoid pits and discolored area around pit). Kumquats, nectarines (no pits or area around pit)

MEAT GROUP:

Protein needs to be given in moderation. Always serve cooked and not raw. Steak (no pink showing), turkey, chicken, roast beef, liver, tuna fish (water packed). Wing tips, thy bones and wing bones (depending on bird size) should be given cooked for the bird to crack open and eat the marrow. Avoid fatty meats. Egg, with shells included, any style except fried.

Foods To Feed

GRAINS:

Whole wheat, multi-grained, carrot, nut or corn breads; noodles, spaghetti, ravioli, macaroni or other pastas; all types of rice, preferably brown, oatmeal, Cream of Wheat or Cream of Rice, cook cereals, low or no salt pretzels, lo salt crackers, including belba toast; other low sugar cereals such as Cheerios, Life, Chex, Kix, Berry Kix, etc.

DAIRY GROUP:

Many parrots are not receiving enough calcium in their diets because owners do not give their birds any foods from this group. As with people, calcium is very important. Remember that too much cheese can cause constipation. Birds love their cheese mixed with other foods such as in macaroni and cheese and pizza.

Cottage cheese, yogurts with or without fruit, eggs (any style with shells included, avoid frying, can make in the microwave).

NUTS:

All kinds of nuts except for acorns and horse chestnuts are good for birds. They should be unsalted. Due to the high fat content use with moderation. Peanuts, almonds, walnuts, filberts, Brazil nuts, pine nuts, pistachio nuts, etc. are all excellent. Peanut butter and other butters made from nuts are a great treat!

VEGETABLES:

Vegetables contain vitamins and minerals which are essential to good health. They should be washed thoroughly to remove any chemicals on their skins. They can be served fresh, steamed, baked in a sauce such as tomato sauce or they can be boiled. Frozen vegetables should be warmed. You can serve them one at a time or you can mix several different types together. Some people even serve them with a sprinkle of garlic or onion powder, other herbs, or even some Parmesan cheese. They are an excellent place to add powdered vitamins and minerals. Canned vegetables are high in sodium and they should not be used.

Red peppers, green peppers, yellow peppers, jalapeño peppers, and other types of peppers are okay. Cucumbers, tomatoes or tomato sauce, green peas, pole beans, waxed beans, sugar snap peas, green beans, peas in pods, corn (on the cob or as kernels) acorn squash, butternut squash, pumpkin - all squash should be cooked. Dark green cabbage, cauliflower, kale, broccoli, cauliflower, spinach (fresh frozen or low slat canned). Baby carrots (raw or cooked), carrots, beets, sweet potatoes (cooked) potatoes all varieties, yams, celery, turnips, Brussels sprouts including the stalks. Zucchini, chard, alfalfa sprouts, bean sprouts, kidney beans (cooked, pinto beans, navy beans and all other beans should be cooked. Lettuce, in moderation since it contains a high water content, and other salad greens. (May cause watery droppings or color changes in droppings).

FRUIT:

Because of the high water content in fruit your bird's droppings may become more watery. If the bird receives a lot of fruit he may not be drinking as much. Avoid any pits in the fruit, and the area around the pits. Fruit should be washed thoroughly and any bruising or discolorations should be cut away first before serving.

Pomegranates, figs, grapes (all kinds). Mangos, all melons, papaya, kiwi, raisins, citrus fruit such as oranges, lemons or limes. Apples (all varieties, though birds may have a preference of one over the other, avoid the seeds). Applesauce, and blackberries, bananas, blueberries, strawberries, cranberries, raspberries, currants, cantaloupe, honeydew, water melon, apricots (no pits, remove area around pit that is discolored too), cherries, plums, (no pits), pears (no seeds), peaches (avoid pits and discolored area around pit). Kumquats, nectarines (no pits or area around pit)

MEAT GROUP:

Protein needs to be given in moderation. Always serve cooked and not raw. Steak (no pink showing), turkey, chicken, roast beef, liver, tuna fish (water packed). Wing tips, thy bones and wing bones (depending on bird size) should be given cooked for the bird to crack open and eat the marrow. Avoid fatty meats. Egg, with shells included, any style except fried.

2007 Quaker Rescue Team, Volunteers and Sponsors



In Defense for Animals, International (IDA) [Portland, Oregon]
  • Matt Rossell
  • Connie D.

Macaw Landing [Portland, Oregon]
  • Jack Devine

Love Your Pet - [Vancouver, Washington]
  • Tracy Nichols
  • Pete Rosengreen

Northwest Bird Rescue & Adoption Orphanage [Volunteers]
Vancouver, Washington
  • Kamiko Akioka
  • Beth Archer
  • Joanne Carras
  • Andrew Cyders
  • Chris Dahelnburg
  • Kory Dearborne
  • Marcus Frazer
  • Brenda Gilliland
  • Louis Lowensberry
  • Garth Noggle
  • Mike Schultz
  • Nancy Soukup
  • Nathan Stonebreaker
Battleground School District [Battleground, Washington]
Avian Medical Center [Lake Oswego, Oregon]
  • Dr. Marti Litner, D.V.M. - & Staff
  • Kelly, Behaviorist

American Wildlife Foundation [Molalla, Oregon]
  • Dr. Janet Ackermann, D.V.M. - & Staff

Emergency Vet Services [Vancouver, Washington]
  • Dr. Liz Grauer, D.V.M. - & Staff

East Mill Plain Animal Hospital [Vancouver, Washington]
A facility VAC Inc.
  • Dr. Judd Witherspoon D.V.M. - & Staff

Parrot 911 Alert [Vancouver, Washington]
PetCo Foundation Steve Goodwin [Portland Oregon]
Lowe’s Hardware [Vancouver Washington]
Park Rose Hardware True Value [Vancouver]
Best Buy Stores Inc. [Hazel Dell, Washington]
Subway Sandwiches [Vancouver Washington]
Chris’ Integrity Repair Services Inc. [Hazel Dell, Washington]
  • Chris Johnson (Owner)
  • Dave Sexton

Creek Side Painting [Vancouver, Washington]
  • Nick Springer (Owner)
  • David

2007 Quaker Rescue Team, Volunteers and Sponsors



In Defense for Animals, International (IDA) [Portland, Oregon]
  • Matt Rossell
  • Connie D.

Macaw Landing [Portland, Oregon]
  • Jack Devine

Love Your Pet - [Vancouver, Washington]
  • Tracy Nichols
  • Pete Rosengreen

Northwest Bird Rescue & Adoption Orphanage [Volunteers]
Vancouver, Washington
  • Kamiko Akioka
  • Beth Archer
  • Joanne Carras
  • Andrew Cyders
  • Chris Dahelnburg
  • Kory Dearborne
  • Marcus Frazer
  • Brenda Gilliland
  • Louis Lowensberry
  • Garth Noggle
  • Mike Schultz
  • Nancy Soukup
  • Nathan Stonebreaker
Battleground School District [Battleground, Washington]
Avian Medical Center [Lake Oswego, Oregon]
  • Dr. Marti Litner, D.V.M. - & Staff
  • Kelly, Behaviorist

American Wildlife Foundation [Molalla, Oregon]
  • Dr. Janet Ackermann, D.V.M. - & Staff

Emergency Vet Services [Vancouver, Washington]
  • Dr. Liz Grauer, D.V.M. - & Staff

East Mill Plain Animal Hospital [Vancouver, Washington]
A facility VAC Inc.
  • Dr. Judd Witherspoon D.V.M. - & Staff

Parrot 911 Alert [Vancouver, Washington]
PetCo Foundation Steve Goodwin [Portland Oregon]
Lowe’s Hardware [Vancouver Washington]
Park Rose Hardware True Value [Vancouver]
Best Buy Stores Inc. [Hazel Dell, Washington]
Subway Sandwiches [Vancouver Washington]
Chris’ Integrity Repair Services Inc. [Hazel Dell, Washington]
  • Chris Johnson (Owner)
  • Dave Sexton

Creek Side Painting [Vancouver, Washington]
  • Nick Springer (Owner)
  • David

Thursday, October 18, 2007

Getting Your Bird To Eat A Varied Diet

How do you get the bird to eat new things? Keep in mind that birds are flock creatures. This means that they will eat better in a social setting. If you have a finicky eater or you are just introducing a new food to the bird, try eating the food yourself with the bird present.

If you or any other birds you own are eating with gusto, your finicky eater will be much more likely to eat or taste the food as well. Some birds need to be right next to you when you try this.



Familiar surroundings:

Birds eat better in familiar surroundings, without distractions. A noisy, chaitic environment will disrupt your bird's mealtime. (And may give you ulcers as well). Try a nice quiet environment while you eat.

Keep Trying:

Keep trying! Keep offering the food. Don't give up. Dietary changes can be accomplished with much patience and persistence on the part of the owner. Just because you offered the food two or three times and the bird refused to eat it, doesn't mean that you should give up. It may take months before you see your bird enjoying all those wonderful foods that you are slaving away to prepare. Too many people only off a new food once or twice and stop offering it. Birds are like small kids. They make take a while before they will try something new. We know of a case where it took almost a year before the bird decided to try the new food!

Sweetening:

Sometimes sweetening the food with a little honey may prompt nibbling. However, you must be careful about making this a habit. Too many sweets are not good for birds. (not for humans either). It could even lead to diabetes or death.

Tricking the bird:

Millet is a favorite seed of many birds. This is like candy to them. Try sprinkling milled or pieces of millet spray on top of the food. Start with more millet than other healthy food. Push the millet down into the new food. Your bird will pick at the millet and maybe even get a tast of the other food. As the bird starts to do this more readily, decrease the amount of millet until you no longer have to add any. We call this the sneaky approach.

Fresh sprouts:

Offer freshly sprouted seeds. You can start seeds yourself or buy sprouts in the produce section of your local grocery store. Varieties include alfalfa, beans and mixtures with radish and clover. This is a special treat for most birds and will start them getting used to different foods. Freshly sprouted seeds also contain lots of vitamins and minerals. Freshly sprouted wheat grass is also a healthy treat.

Alternate:

Another method that may work is to alternate offering seed a few hours at a time, then offering fresh fruits and vegetables, or other healthy foods for a few hours. Keep track of your bird's weight if you do this. Remember to offer the fruits, veggies, etc. first, because your bird will be the hungriest in the morning. It will be more likely to try new foods then.

Different presentation:

Sometimes presenting the food differently will get the bird to eat. Try chopping the food up into small pieces, or you can shred it. Alternate different foods on a daily basis. On the market is a birdie "shish-kabob" toy made to hold food.

Jealousy:

Don't forget about the power of jealousy. Whenever you have more than one bird, there is a competition for your attention. Use it to encourage your birds to do what you want them to do. (Hint: this advice pertains to other areas of training as well.) Birds are very much like little children. What ever one has, the other one wants.

Family affair:

Make eating a family affair -- get your bird involved. Your bird will be the healthier for it. This is not meant to imply that you allow your bird to go from plate to plate, taking whatever it wants, or walking over your food. Little birdie footprints in your mashed potatoes is not exactly appetizing. THE BIRD MUST LEARN PROPER TABLE MANNERS! Try using his own dish or make a special place for him by placing is stand near the table. A bird without table manners is open to many different accidents such as being scalded from hot foods or choosing the wrong food for itself. Wrong foods are chocolate, avocados, and rhubarb. These CAN kill it. Mayonnaise products are included as well, because mayonnaise can go bad rapidly. (Hint: The word "NO" figures prominently in any discussions of birdie etiquette.)

Special goodies:

Feed your birds all types of goodies. While some of them prefer to eat with the family, you should still offer these foods in their treat cups daily. So far a favorite snack food has been popcorn (plain). Birds differ in how they eat it - some have gone so far as to jump into the popcorn bowl. Mix other healthy foods in with their special goodies. For special treats try stringing grapes, popcorn, whole peanuts on a thing string (not too thin), Remove as soon as the food disappears. Also as a special treat, pine cones stuffed with peanut butter and seeds are welcomed by some larger birds.

Getting Your Bird To Eat A Varied Diet

How do you get the bird to eat new things? Keep in mind that birds are flock creatures. This means that they will eat better in a social setting. If you have a finicky eater or you are just introducing a new food to the bird, try eating the food yourself with the bird present.

If you or any other birds you own are eating with gusto, your finicky eater will be much more likely to eat or taste the food as well. Some birds need to be right next to you when you try this.



Familiar surroundings:

Birds eat better in familiar surroundings, without distractions. A noisy, chaitic environment will disrupt your bird's mealtime. (And may give you ulcers as well). Try a nice quiet environment while you eat.

Keep Trying:

Keep trying! Keep offering the food. Don't give up. Dietary changes can be accomplished with much patience and persistence on the part of the owner. Just because you offered the food two or three times and the bird refused to eat it, doesn't mean that you should give up. It may take months before you see your bird enjoying all those wonderful foods that you are slaving away to prepare. Too many people only off a new food once or twice and stop offering it. Birds are like small kids. They make take a while before they will try something new. We know of a case where it took almost a year before the bird decided to try the new food!

Sweetening:

Sometimes sweetening the food with a little honey may prompt nibbling. However, you must be careful about making this a habit. Too many sweets are not good for birds. (not for humans either). It could even lead to diabetes or death.

Tricking the bird:

Millet is a favorite seed of many birds. This is like candy to them. Try sprinkling milled or pieces of millet spray on top of the food. Start with more millet than other healthy food. Push the millet down into the new food. Your bird will pick at the millet and maybe even get a tast of the other food. As the bird starts to do this more readily, decrease the amount of millet until you no longer have to add any. We call this the sneaky approach.

Fresh sprouts:

Offer freshly sprouted seeds. You can start seeds yourself or buy sprouts in the produce section of your local grocery store. Varieties include alfalfa, beans and mixtures with radish and clover. This is a special treat for most birds and will start them getting used to different foods. Freshly sprouted seeds also contain lots of vitamins and minerals. Freshly sprouted wheat grass is also a healthy treat.

Alternate:

Another method that may work is to alternate offering seed a few hours at a time, then offering fresh fruits and vegetables, or other healthy foods for a few hours. Keep track of your bird's weight if you do this. Remember to offer the fruits, veggies, etc. first, because your bird will be the hungriest in the morning. It will be more likely to try new foods then.

Different presentation:

Sometimes presenting the food differently will get the bird to eat. Try chopping the food up into small pieces, or you can shred it. Alternate different foods on a daily basis. On the market is a birdie "shish-kabob" toy made to hold food.

Jealousy:

Don't forget about the power of jealousy. Whenever you have more than one bird, there is a competition for your attention. Use it to encourage your birds to do what you want them to do. (Hint: this advice pertains to other areas of training as well.) Birds are very much like little children. What ever one has, the other one wants.

Family affair:

Make eating a family affair -- get your bird involved. Your bird will be the healthier for it. This is not meant to imply that you allow your bird to go from plate to plate, taking whatever it wants, or walking over your food. Little birdie footprints in your mashed potatoes is not exactly appetizing. THE BIRD MUST LEARN PROPER TABLE MANNERS! Try using his own dish or make a special place for him by placing is stand near the table. A bird without table manners is open to many different accidents such as being scalded from hot foods or choosing the wrong food for itself. Wrong foods are chocolate, avocados, and rhubarb. These CAN kill it. Mayonnaise products are included as well, because mayonnaise can go bad rapidly. (Hint: The word "NO" figures prominently in any discussions of birdie etiquette.)

Special goodies:

Feed your birds all types of goodies. While some of them prefer to eat with the family, you should still offer these foods in their treat cups daily. So far a favorite snack food has been popcorn (plain). Birds differ in how they eat it - some have gone so far as to jump into the popcorn bowl. Mix other healthy foods in with their special goodies. For special treats try stringing grapes, popcorn, whole peanuts on a thing string (not too thin), Remove as soon as the food disappears. Also as a special treat, pine cones stuffed with peanut butter and seeds are welcomed by some larger birds.

Putting A First Aid Kit Together

Know how to restrain your bird properly. Knowing this may just save your bird's life!
When a bird is injured, you will need to stop the bleeding before you take your bird to the avian veterinarian. Apply direct pressure to the wounded area and once you get the bleeding under control, then transport the bird to the veterinarian. Remember that the bird can bleed to death very rapidly.
Egg binding, seizures, concussions, protrusions from the vent, difficulty breathing, wheezing, broken bones, etc. need to be taken care of immediately. Get to the veterinarian ASAP!
It is always a good idea to have an emergency kit for your birds. Most of the items included here can be bought at any drug store. Some of the other items you may have to go to a medical supply store to obtain. Whenever you take a trip with your bird, make sure that you bring along a miniature version of the listed items.
ITEMS IN THE KIT
*List of veterinarians and other emergency numbers
*Sterile syringes, no needles: to squirt liquid over injured area or to give avian veterinarian prescribed medication.
*Gauze sponges or pads: to clean the injured area.
*Bandaging materials (gauze or ace bandage that has lost most of its elasticity.
*Towels to restrain the bird or cover the cage.
*Rubbing alcohol (Isoproply) & hydrogen peroxide: to clean an injured area or disinfect equipment.
*Clotting agent (styptic powder, flour or corn starch) to stop bleeding.
*Cotton tipped applicators (Q-tips) to help clean the injured area.
*Hot water bottle, heating pad, or heat light: to keep the bird warm.
*Needle nosed pliers or hemostats: to pull blood feathers or hold things.
*Nail file: to file nails or beaks.
*Sterile saline solution: to help clean or wet an area to get a better look.
Providone iodine syrup and solution (Betadine): to help sterilize area or to be used to clean your hands.
*Penlight flashlight: to provide you with extra light so you can see what you are looking at.
*Tweezers, long and blunted are best: to help you remove material (i.e. seed caught in nares).
*Hand feeding formula or baby food: to give your bird some extra nutrition
Small scissors: to cut gauze or bandaging material.
*Apple juice (the best one to use), Pedialyte, diluted karo syrup: give to prevent dehydration.
*Paper, pen and pencils: to write down what you did and when.
*Wooden tongue depressors: to open your birds mouth, (not for use with larger birds).
*Tape. (masking) won't stick to the feathers much: to hold bandages in place.
*Ziplock bags: to take samples to the vet such as fecals or ingested substances.
*K-Y Jelly (water based lubricant).
*Latex gloves: protects your hands against hazardous materials.
*Sick cage such as an aquarium tank or small cage: to keep a sick or injured bird warm and quiet.

NEVER
apply oil anywhere on the bird!
NEVER give over the counter medicines without an avian veterinarian's approval. They can mask the symptoms of an illness which may result in an erroneous diagnosis!
NEVER treat a bird yourself. This is something that your avian veterinarian must do! Do not self-medicate a bird, ever!
NEVER use slaves, ointments, or creams if your bird gets burned. Use cool water instead.
NEVER give your bird medication meant for a human unless directed to do so by an avian veterinarian.