Thursday, December 20, 2007

How to Donate to help the Yacolt Parrots

Make Your Checks payable to:
Northwest Bird Rescue
13215 SE Mill Plain Blvd.
Suite C-8 #101 Vancouver, Washington 98684

Macaw Landing
Put Quaker in Memo Section:
POB 17364
Portland Org. 97217

How to Donate to help the Yacolt Parrots

Make Your Checks payable to:
Northwest Bird Rescue
13215 SE Mill Plain Blvd.
Suite C-8 #101 Vancouver, Washington 98684

Macaw Landing
Put Quaker in Memo Section:
POB 17364
Portland Org. 97217

Monday, December 17, 2007

Yacolt Parrot Picture

This is one of the current pictures taken of the Yacolt Parrots rebuilding their nests after they had been torn down a few weeks ago.

As you can see they are starting and attempting to rebuild their nest once again on the power lines. This is just one of the many nests starting to come up around this tiny town.

Hopefully we can figure out a solution soon to this problem.

Yacolt Parrot Picture

This is one of the current pictures taken of the Yacolt Parrots rebuilding their nests after they had been torn down a few weeks ago.

As you can see they are starting and attempting to rebuild their nest once again on the power lines. This is just one of the many nests starting to come up around this tiny town.

Hopefully we can figure out a solution soon to this problem.

Sunday, December 16, 2007

Thank You

I would just like to send out a thank you to all of the people who have been donating and supporting this mission to save and rescue the Yacolt Parrots.

These are just a few people who have donated supplies, and their time.

In Defense for Animals, International (IDA) [Portland, Oregon]
  • Matt Rossell
  • Connie D.
Macaw Landing [Portland, Oregon]
  • Jack Devine
Love Your Pet - [Vancouver, Washington]
  • Tracy Nichols
  • Pete Rosengreen
Northwest Bird Rescue & Adoption Orphanage [Volunteers]
Vancouver, Washington
  • Kamiko Akioka
  • Beth Archer
  • Joanne Carras
  • Andrew Cyders
  • Chris Dahelnburg
  • Kory Dearborne
  • Marcus Frazer
  • Brenda Gilliland
  • Louis Lowensberry
  • Garth Noggle
  • Mike Schultz
  • Nancy Soukup
  • Nathan Stonebreaker
Battleground School District [Battleground, Washington]
Avian Medical Center [Lake Oswego, Oregon]
  • Dr. Marti Litner, D.V.M. - & Staff
  • Kelly, Behaviorist
American Wildlife Foundation [Molalla, Oregon]
  • Dr. Janet Ackermann, D.V.M. - & Staff
Emergency Vet Services [Vancouver, Washington]
  • Dr. Liz Grauer, D.V.M. - & Staff
East Mill Plain Animal Hospital [Vancouver, Washington]
A facility VAC Inc.
  • Dr. Judd Witherspoon D.V.M. - & Staff
Parrot 911 Alert [Vancouver, Washington]
PetCo Foundation
Lowe’s Hardware [Vancouver Washington]
Park Rose Hardware True Value [Vancouver]
Best Buy Stores Inc. [Hazel Dell, Washington]
Subway Sandwiches [Vancouver Washington]
Chris’ Integrity Repair Services Inc. [Hazel Dell, Washington]
  • Chris Johnson (Owner)
  • Dave Sexton
Creek Side Painting [Vancouver, Washington]
  • Nick Springer (Owner)
  • David
Thank you once again!

If I have missed you on this list, my deepest apologies.

If you would like to donate you can find out all the details for that at my website: www.nwbirdrescue.com or www.bebsoinc.com.

More updates to come!

Thank You

I would just like to send out a thank you to all of the people who have been donating and supporting this mission to save and rescue the Yacolt Parrots.

These are just a few people who have donated supplies, and their time.

In Defense for Animals, International (IDA) [Portland, Oregon]
  • Matt Rossell
  • Connie D.
Macaw Landing [Portland, Oregon]
  • Jack Devine
Love Your Pet - [Vancouver, Washington]
  • Tracy Nichols
  • Pete Rosengreen
Northwest Bird Rescue & Adoption Orphanage [Volunteers]
Vancouver, Washington
  • Kamiko Akioka
  • Beth Archer
  • Joanne Carras
  • Andrew Cyders
  • Chris Dahelnburg
  • Kory Dearborne
  • Marcus Frazer
  • Brenda Gilliland
  • Louis Lowensberry
  • Garth Noggle
  • Mike Schultz
  • Nancy Soukup
  • Nathan Stonebreaker
Battleground School District [Battleground, Washington]
Avian Medical Center [Lake Oswego, Oregon]
  • Dr. Marti Litner, D.V.M. - & Staff
  • Kelly, Behaviorist
American Wildlife Foundation [Molalla, Oregon]
  • Dr. Janet Ackermann, D.V.M. - & Staff
Emergency Vet Services [Vancouver, Washington]
  • Dr. Liz Grauer, D.V.M. - & Staff
East Mill Plain Animal Hospital [Vancouver, Washington]
A facility VAC Inc.
  • Dr. Judd Witherspoon D.V.M. - & Staff
Parrot 911 Alert [Vancouver, Washington]
PetCo Foundation
Lowe’s Hardware [Vancouver Washington]
Park Rose Hardware True Value [Vancouver]
Best Buy Stores Inc. [Hazel Dell, Washington]
Subway Sandwiches [Vancouver Washington]
Chris’ Integrity Repair Services Inc. [Hazel Dell, Washington]
  • Chris Johnson (Owner)
  • Dave Sexton
Creek Side Painting [Vancouver, Washington]
  • Nick Springer (Owner)
  • David
Thank you once again!

If I have missed you on this list, my deepest apologies.

If you would like to donate you can find out all the details for that at my website: www.nwbirdrescue.com or www.bebsoinc.com.

More updates to come!

Monday, December 10, 2007

Updated: Interview with Birdchannel

Today there was an interview with birdchannel.com. They are a website dedicated to the bird community and keeping up with the news and just the every day lives of bird lovers and their companions.

The interview was about the attempt to rescue the parrots of Yacolt.

Today was basically surveying the area as to where the community group's nests used to be located and seeing where they go to find shelter in an attempt to figure out a way to get the birds off of the power lines.

The article located at birdchannel can be found here: Volunteers Work To Save Yacolt Quaker Parrots

That's all for today's update.

Thank you for all your support.

Updated: Interview with Birdchannel

Today there was an interview with birdchannel.com. They are a website dedicated to the bird community and keeping up with the news and just the every day lives of bird lovers and their companions.

The interview was about the attempt to rescue the parrots of Yacolt.

Today was basically surveying the area as to where the community group's nests used to be located and seeing where they go to find shelter in an attempt to figure out a way to get the birds off of the power lines.

The article located at birdchannel can be found here: Volunteers Work To Save Yacolt Quaker Parrots

That's all for today's update.

Thank you for all your support.

Ballad of the Brooklyn Parrots: The (Definitive) Full-Motion Version! Thursday, April 10, 2008

The song "The Ballad of the Brooklyn Parrots" has evolved significantly from its humble roots as a free MP3 file. First folks asked for a Youtube version, so still photographs were added to the track. Then folks began asking for actual MTV-style moving images to accompany the song: the resulting video is embedded below: enjoy! -- and remember, "they're mighty loud and they're mighty raucous; the scientists call them Myiopsitta Monachus!" - Steve Baldwin Founder of Brooklyn Parrots .com

Ballad of the Brooklyn Parrots: The (Definitive) Full-Motion Version! Thursday, April 10, 2008

The song "The Ballad of the Brooklyn Parrots" has evolved significantly from its humble roots as a free MP3 file. First folks asked for a Youtube version, so still photographs were added to the track. Then folks began asking for actual MTV-style moving images to accompany the song: the resulting video is embedded below: enjoy! -- and remember, "they're mighty loud and they're mighty raucous; the scientists call them Myiopsitta Monachus!" - Steve Baldwin Founder of Brooklyn Parrots .com

Sunday, December 9, 2007

Local Quaker “Sparky” Builds His own Dream House ********** (Portland Oregon)

Sparky the Master BuilderSparky the Master Builder
Sparky and Alexandra Build Their Nest

Local Quaker “Sparky” Builds His own Dream House (Portland Oregon)

Sparky and Alexandra Build Their Nest





Local Quaker “Sparky” Builds His own Dream House ********** (Portland Oregon)

Sparky the Master BuilderSparky the Master Builder
Sparky and Alexandra Build Their Nest

Local Quaker “Sparky” Builds His own Dream House (Portland Oregon)

Sparky and Alexandra Build Their Nest





Wednesday, December 5, 2007

Interview with Birdchannel

Birdchannel put out one more article on the Yacolt Parrots today.

We are currently trying to get more nesting boxes for the Parrots in hopes to shield them from the harsh weather that is making it's way into this tiny town.

A lot of residents have been really supportive and giving permission to put nesting boxes up in their yards and properties.

The conditions are getting worse for this type of work, hopefully they will lighten or we will be done soon.

I definitely don't want to see any other Parrots fall because of this weather. Let's hope that we can save the remaining community of birds.

You can find the article from Birdchannel located here: Birdchannel Update Article

Thank you to all of my volunteers and people giving donations of supplies. It is very much appreciated.

Interview with Birdchannel

Birdchannel put out one more article on the Yacolt Parrots today.

We are currently trying to get more nesting boxes for the Parrots in hopes to shield them from the harsh weather that is making it's way into this tiny town.

A lot of residents have been really supportive and giving permission to put nesting boxes up in their yards and properties.

The conditions are getting worse for this type of work, hopefully they will lighten or we will be done soon.

I definitely don't want to see any other Parrots fall because of this weather. Let's hope that we can save the remaining community of birds.

You can find the article from Birdchannel located here: Birdchannel Update Article

Thank you to all of my volunteers and people giving donations of supplies. It is very much appreciated.

Friday, November 30, 2007

Columbian Article

Once again Birdman found himself face to face with the Quaker Parrot issue.

As reported on by the Oregonian.

This is the article:


Yacolt ponders the fate of 16 feral Quaker parrots

Posted by The Oregonian November 30, 2007 18:43PM

Categories: Breaking News, Clark County

Exotic bird lovers are aflutter -- and undecided -- about how to care for 16 feral Quaker parrots after Clark County's electric utility this week removed their large nests from five power transformers in the small town of Yacolt, Wash.

Two residents are organizing a town meeting for 7:30 p.m. Saturday to try to come up with a plan to keep the birds, also called Monk parakeets, as neighbors. The meeting will be held at Yacolt Pentecostal Church at East Humphrey Street and Ranck Avenue.

"They're more than just birds to us, they're part of our community," said Joy Tindall, 30, who is helping put together the Yacolt Parrot Preservation Association.

Erecting poles taller than the utility poles with attached platforms on which to nest could draw the green and gray parrots, who seek out high spots with nothing within 50 feet to obstruct visibility, Tindall said. When the first two birds started nesting in 2002, the utility poles were the highest point in the north county town, she said.

For safety reasons, Clark Public Utilities hired crews to remove the nests, which can eventually enclose an entire transformer and weigh up to 2,000 pounds. Three birds were euthanized, but about 16 escaped.

Stephanie Tillett, who runs an exotic bird rescue in Brush Prairie, said the birds could be humanely captured and put into a free-flight public aviary in the town park. That way, the birds would be protected and out of the utility's way, and residents could continue to enjoy them and control their numbers. Feral Quaker parrots will not become good pets, she said.

But on Friday, Steve Burleigh, who runs a bird rescue operation in Keizer, said he and a Yacolt resident, Christopher Driggins, put up nesting boxes to attract and trap the birds. Burleigh thinks they could be "rehabilitated" and adopted, some by Yacolt residents.

As you can see, after the death of 3 birds this community and the animal lovers out there are all attempting to try and save this little community of birds.

We (Birdman's webmasters) will attempt to post along with him to try and keep everyone updated.

Thanks for all your support.

Columbian Article

Once again Birdman found himself face to face with the Quaker Parrot issue.

As reported on by the Oregonian.

This is the article:


Yacolt ponders the fate of 16 feral Quaker parrots

Posted by The Oregonian November 30, 2007 18:43PM

Categories: Breaking News, Clark County

Exotic bird lovers are aflutter -- and undecided -- about how to care for 16 feral Quaker parrots after Clark County's electric utility this week removed their large nests from five power transformers in the small town of Yacolt, Wash.

Two residents are organizing a town meeting for 7:30 p.m. Saturday to try to come up with a plan to keep the birds, also called Monk parakeets, as neighbors. The meeting will be held at Yacolt Pentecostal Church at East Humphrey Street and Ranck Avenue.

"They're more than just birds to us, they're part of our community," said Joy Tindall, 30, who is helping put together the Yacolt Parrot Preservation Association.

Erecting poles taller than the utility poles with attached platforms on which to nest could draw the green and gray parrots, who seek out high spots with nothing within 50 feet to obstruct visibility, Tindall said. When the first two birds started nesting in 2002, the utility poles were the highest point in the north county town, she said.

For safety reasons, Clark Public Utilities hired crews to remove the nests, which can eventually enclose an entire transformer and weigh up to 2,000 pounds. Three birds were euthanized, but about 16 escaped.

Stephanie Tillett, who runs an exotic bird rescue in Brush Prairie, said the birds could be humanely captured and put into a free-flight public aviary in the town park. That way, the birds would be protected and out of the utility's way, and residents could continue to enjoy them and control their numbers. Feral Quaker parrots will not become good pets, she said.

But on Friday, Steve Burleigh, who runs a bird rescue operation in Keizer, said he and a Yacolt resident, Christopher Driggins, put up nesting boxes to attract and trap the birds. Burleigh thinks they could be "rehabilitated" and adopted, some by Yacolt residents.

As you can see, after the death of 3 birds this community and the animal lovers out there are all attempting to try and save this little community of birds.

We (Birdman's webmasters) will attempt to post along with him to try and keep everyone updated.

Thanks for all your support.

Sunday, October 21, 2007

What Do You Need Besides The Bird?

Things That Are Necessary:

- Adoption Certificate or Bill of Sale
[Needed to identify that your bird belongs to you.]

- Bedding (Bottom of Cage)
[Your choice - but do not use sand or cat litter.]

- Bird Bath Tubs
[All birds need to bathe. Tubs are better for smaller birds.]

- Cage
[Choose one that is species appropriate.]

- Carriers
[Keeps bird safe while traveling with them.]

- Clean Agent
[Wide range available - soap, water or chemicals.]

- Extra Food Dishes
[Several sets that are dishwasher safe.]

- Extra Perches
[Make sure they are different widths, textures and safe.]

- Extra Water Bottles
[Make sure that they are dishwasher safe.]

- Fruits/Vegetables/Cereals/Grains
[Feed a wide range and variety to your birds.]

- Instructions
[Ask seller about health, diet, routine, care and behavior.]

- Pellets ("Depends on Bird")
[Some birds love pellets, others don't. Many varieties available.]

- Spray Bottle
[Birds need regular baths. This method is good for most birds.]

- Syringes (No Needle "Needed for Babies")
[ For feeding babies or medicated sick birds.]

- Thermometer ("Needed for Babies")
[Good quality way to check temperature of feeding formula.]

- Weaning Foods ("Needed for Babies")
[Helps ease transition to adult food.]

- Toys
[Buy several species appropriate toys and change occasionally.]

- Veterinary Exam
[Annual checkup and fecal is needed for all birds.]

Things That Are Recommended:

-
Bottle Brushes
[Toothbrushes are excellent for cleaning bottles and cups.]

- Cooking Mixes
[Can be made in batches and frozen for later.]

- Covering for Floor
[Protects your floor and carpeting. Choose something that is easy to clean or replaceable.]

- Distilled Water
[For baby birds, sick birds and for when you travel.]

- Extra C-Clamps
[Replace O-rings on toys, use for safety reasons.]

- Cuttlebone
[Good mineral source for small birds.]

- First Aid Kit
[Put your own version together inexpensively.]

- Magazines
[Bird Talk, Pet Bird Report, Birds USA, etc.]

- Millet Spray
[Good for treats, use sparingly.]

- Mineral Blocks
[Come in different shapes and flavors. Good for all birds.]

- Play Pens
[Good place for your birds to play safely when not in the cage.]

- Scrapers
[Good for cleaning perches and the cage.]

- Stands
[Good for play time, traveling or training.]

- Treats
[Give occasionally. Many kinds of treats are available.]

Things That Are Optional:

- Bird ID: Microchip
[Permanent way to identify medium to large birds.]

- Extra Cage
[Good when traveling with your bird or as a sick cage.]

- Full Spectrum Lighting
[Gives your bird the full spectrum of lighting.]

- Heat Source
[Used to keep baby or sick bird warm, ask your veterinarian.]

- Incubator
[Great sick cage especially if you have several birds.]

- Seed Guards or Cage Apron
[Helps keep bird from throwing food out of their cage.]

- Sink Cage
[Good to have in case a bird gets sick or injured.]

- Therapeutic Perch
[Helps to wear nails down. Should be highest perch.]

What Do You Need Besides The Bird?

Things That Are Necessary:

- Adoption Certificate or Bill of Sale
[Needed to identify that your bird belongs to you.]

- Bedding (Bottom of Cage)
[Your choice - but do not use sand or cat litter.]

- Bird Bath Tubs
[All birds need to bathe. Tubs are better for smaller birds.]

- Cage
[Choose one that is species appropriate.]

- Carriers
[Keeps bird safe while traveling with them.]

- Clean Agent
[Wide range available - soap, water or chemicals.]

- Extra Food Dishes
[Several sets that are dishwasher safe.]

- Extra Perches
[Make sure they are different widths, textures and safe.]

- Extra Water Bottles
[Make sure that they are dishwasher safe.]

- Fruits/Vegetables/Cereals/Grains
[Feed a wide range and variety to your birds.]

- Instructions
[Ask seller about health, diet, routine, care and behavior.]

- Pellets ("Depends on Bird")
[Some birds love pellets, others don't. Many varieties available.]

- Spray Bottle
[Birds need regular baths. This method is good for most birds.]

- Syringes (No Needle "Needed for Babies")
[ For feeding babies or medicated sick birds.]

- Thermometer ("Needed for Babies")
[Good quality way to check temperature of feeding formula.]

- Weaning Foods ("Needed for Babies")
[Helps ease transition to adult food.]

- Toys
[Buy several species appropriate toys and change occasionally.]

- Veterinary Exam
[Annual checkup and fecal is needed for all birds.]

Things That Are Recommended:

-
Bottle Brushes
[Toothbrushes are excellent for cleaning bottles and cups.]

- Cooking Mixes
[Can be made in batches and frozen for later.]

- Covering for Floor
[Protects your floor and carpeting. Choose something that is easy to clean or replaceable.]

- Distilled Water
[For baby birds, sick birds and for when you travel.]

- Extra C-Clamps
[Replace O-rings on toys, use for safety reasons.]

- Cuttlebone
[Good mineral source for small birds.]

- First Aid Kit
[Put your own version together inexpensively.]

- Magazines
[Bird Talk, Pet Bird Report, Birds USA, etc.]

- Millet Spray
[Good for treats, use sparingly.]

- Mineral Blocks
[Come in different shapes and flavors. Good for all birds.]

- Play Pens
[Good place for your birds to play safely when not in the cage.]

- Scrapers
[Good for cleaning perches and the cage.]

- Stands
[Good for play time, traveling or training.]

- Treats
[Give occasionally. Many kinds of treats are available.]

Things That Are Optional:

- Bird ID: Microchip
[Permanent way to identify medium to large birds.]

- Extra Cage
[Good when traveling with your bird or as a sick cage.]

- Full Spectrum Lighting
[Gives your bird the full spectrum of lighting.]

- Heat Source
[Used to keep baby or sick bird warm, ask your veterinarian.]

- Incubator
[Great sick cage especially if you have several birds.]

- Seed Guards or Cage Apron
[Helps keep bird from throwing food out of their cage.]

- Sink Cage
[Good to have in case a bird gets sick or injured.]

- Therapeutic Perch
[Helps to wear nails down. Should be highest perch.]

Setting Up For The New Arrival

Are you considering adopting a bird? If so, keep in mind that it will become a member of your family and it will consider you a part of its' flock. It will depend on you for all its' needs and the love you give it will be returned more than you ever thought possible.

What do you need when you adopt a new bird? This is one of the questions we are asked all the time. Back in the Dark Ages of bird care, people thought all that was needed for the bird was a cage and seeds.

However, with more and more breeders selling hand-fed babies, this is no longer true. Back in those unenlightened days of bird care, (around 20 years ago) most of the birds in the country were either imported or smuggled into the country. The birds went through a quarantine station, and most of them were either young (though not babies) birdsor already mature birds. Little thought was given to their psychological well being. While there were many good loving owners, most birds suffered from the lack of knowledge about what their needs were. Luckily today we know so much more about what a bird needs to be kept physically healthy and mentally healthy as well.

When adopting a bird, the new owner has to figure in not only the cost of the bird, but the different supplies needed

as well. It is no longer just the cost of a cage and some seed. It is all the little extras. Many of these accessories are an ongoing cost and not a one time thing.

It is very important to make sure that the new bird sees an avian veterinarian as soon as possible. There is so much more known about birds today and because of this birds are living longer in captivity.

Part of the reason for this is better medical care and knowledge of bird health. More is known about proper nutrition. Today's avian veterinarian is able to diagnosis problems earlier or to prevent them all together. Make sure that the veterinarian you are seeing knows birds, sees them on a regular basis, and is current on all the latest research. While leaps and bounds have been made in the field of avian medicine, there are still few veterinarians who specialize in birds, or see birds as a regular part of their veterinary practice.

Also, keep in mind if you are adopting a baby bird that you plan to continue hand-feeding you will need extra supplies you would not require if you were adopting a baby bird fully weaned.

Setting Up For The New Arrival

Are you considering adopting a bird? If so, keep in mind that it will become a member of your family and it will consider you a part of its' flock. It will depend on you for all its' needs and the love you give it will be returned more than you ever thought possible.

What do you need when you adopt a new bird? This is one of the questions we are asked all the time. Back in the Dark Ages of bird care, people thought all that was needed for the bird was a cage and seeds.

However, with more and more breeders selling hand-fed babies, this is no longer true. Back in those unenlightened days of bird care, (around 20 years ago) most of the birds in the country were either imported or smuggled into the country. The birds went through a quarantine station, and most of them were either young (though not babies) birdsor already mature birds. Little thought was given to their psychological well being. While there were many good loving owners, most birds suffered from the lack of knowledge about what their needs were. Luckily today we know so much more about what a bird needs to be kept physically healthy and mentally healthy as well.

When adopting a bird, the new owner has to figure in not only the cost of the bird, but the different supplies needed

as well. It is no longer just the cost of a cage and some seed. It is all the little extras. Many of these accessories are an ongoing cost and not a one time thing.

It is very important to make sure that the new bird sees an avian veterinarian as soon as possible. There is so much more known about birds today and because of this birds are living longer in captivity.

Part of the reason for this is better medical care and knowledge of bird health. More is known about proper nutrition. Today's avian veterinarian is able to diagnosis problems earlier or to prevent them all together. Make sure that the veterinarian you are seeing knows birds, sees them on a regular basis, and is current on all the latest research. While leaps and bounds have been made in the field of avian medicine, there are still few veterinarians who specialize in birds, or see birds as a regular part of their veterinary practice.

Also, keep in mind if you are adopting a baby bird that you plan to continue hand-feeding you will need extra supplies you would not require if you were adopting a baby bird fully weaned.

Sanctuary Program

The Foundation provides sanctuary and permanently cares for birds that are not suitable for adoption or placement in foster care or for persons that their owners are incarcerated or that have specifically requested that their birds remain in permanent sanctuary. All sanctuary birds receive the same high level of care as the birds available for adoption and foster care. Sanctuary birds are housed in species-specific rooms at the Foundation and have access to outdoor flights, abundant enrichment, and psychological and environmental support on a daily basis. The Foundation's sanctuary provides: * A safe haven for birds that prefer not to interact with humans in a companion animal situation. * A safe haven for birds that their owners are incarcerated, until their owners are stable again. * A home for birds with chronic disease with supportive care and nurturance. * Staff dedicated to meet the needs of the individual bird. * Educational programs that focus on some of the sanctuary birds' specific needs or problems, indigenous habitats, conservation status, or social interaction to promote the parrot welfare cause.

Sanctuary Program

The Foundation provides sanctuary and permanently cares for birds that are not suitable for adoption or placement in foster care or for persons that their owners are incarcerated or that have specifically requested that their birds remain in permanent sanctuary. All sanctuary birds receive the same high level of care as the birds available for adoption and foster care. Sanctuary birds are housed in species-specific rooms at the Foundation and have access to outdoor flights, abundant enrichment, and psychological and environmental support on a daily basis. The Foundation's sanctuary provides: * A safe haven for birds that prefer not to interact with humans in a companion animal situation. * A safe haven for birds that their owners are incarcerated, until their owners are stable again. * A home for birds with chronic disease with supportive care and nurturance. * Staff dedicated to meet the needs of the individual bird. * Educational programs that focus on some of the sanctuary birds' specific needs or problems, indigenous habitats, conservation status, or social interaction to promote the parrot welfare cause.

For The Cage

Bedding Materials:

1. Grating :
needs cleaning often, should not be used with birds that suffer from night fright due to possible injury. Keeps the bird from going down to play in the bedding material. May or may not work that way.
2. Newspaper: No shiny color print due to toxicity. Cheap, easy to clean, can turn white bird black if the bird likes to play with the paper. Bird may shred it and toss it. Very few cases of ingestion.
3. Corncob: Looks pretty, but needs to be cleaned daily. Wet areas must be removed due to mold growth. Easy to toss, but doesn't always scatter when bird flaps its wings. Baby birds might ingest, causing crop impaction.
4. Crushed walnut shells: Can Have mold or pesticides. Might be ingested by baby birds, causing crop impaction. Looks pretty, but easy to scatter when bird flaps its wings. Also easy to toss.
5. Wood shavings PINE ONLY: Never use cedar or chlorophyll shavings. These can cause death!! Looks pretty as well, but easy to toss and when the bird flaps its wings it does scatter. Birds might also ingest, causing crop impaction.
6. Paper Towels: Very absorbent, soft, easy to clean. Bird can shred or toss. Very few cases of ingestion.
7. Paper pellet bedding: Looks pretty, but bird may try eating. Ingestion cases reported. Hard for bird to scatter by flapping its wings, but he can still toss.
8. Grass pellet bedding: Looks pretty, but bird may try eating. Ingestion cases reported. Hard for bird to scatter by flapping its wings, but it can still toss. Can have mold or be contaminated with pesticides.
9. Computer paper: Easy to clean, but bird may shred and toss. Very few cases of ingestion.
10. Citrus rinds: Can be contaminated with pesticides or molds. Looks good and smells good, however. Bird can toss and it can scatter easily when the bird flaps its wings. Cases of crop impaction reported.
11. Paper pulp: Looks like lots of shredded paper. Manufacturer claims even if ingested it won't cause crop impactions, but it is too new on the marked to know if this claim is true.
12. Nothing: The safest of all! However, thorough daily cleaning is a must. Bottom needs to be disinfected daily. Offers no soft footing or extra warmth for young or sick birds.

WARNING: NEVER USE SAND, GRAVEL, OR CAT LITTER! THESE WILL CAUSE CROP IMPACTIONS AND MAY KILL YOUR BIRD

Cleaning The Cage:
  • How often should you clean the cage? The answer will vary depending on the level of cleanliness you want or need.

  • If the cage is new and you suspect that it contains a zinc coating (toxic to birds) it must be wiped down first with a finegar solution. This will help to prevent toxicity.

Daily
Bottom of the cage should be changed. Fresh food and water (use alternate set of dishes and water bottles if you wish.)

Weekly
Daily routine plus wipe cage around with a good disinfectant, rinse with water after air drying unless directed otherwise. Perches scrapped of droppings or replaced. Toys need to be cleaned, replaced, or rotated as well.

Monthly
Daily routine plus weekly routine. Replace perches that cannot be cleaned. Everything in the cage needs to be thoroughly cleaned. Therapeutic perches cleaned, checked for unusual wear. Inspect cage for any rust, loose joints, peeling paint, rough spots on bars, or other troubles.

Bi-annually
Twice a year (minimum) the cage, especially a large one, needs to be taken outside, scrubbed down, disinfected, and rinsed once again. Small cages can be done more often in the shower or the tub. Perches should be replaced with new ones. Toys need to be cleaned or replaced. Check the bars for rough spots. If the cage is painted or powder coated, check to see if paint or coating is peeling or being removed.

Disinfecting:

WARNING: When cleaning the cage with any disinfectant ALWAYS READ THE LABEL CAREFULLY AND FOLLOW ALL DIRECTIONS!

There are different levels of disinfecting. Low level disinfectants (kills some bacteria, fungus and viruses). Intermediate level disinfectants (kills some bacteria, fungus, viruses, and tuberculosis). High level (kills all living organisms).

Steps to follow when disinfecting:
1. Soak any area that does not wipe off easily.
2. Clean with soap and hot water to remove all dirt and debris.
3. Rinse thoroughly. This does not kill any bacteria, fungus, etc. Dirt, debris, and soap residue can cut down on the effectiveness of the disinfectant.
4. Use a scrub brush or a toothbrush on any hard to clean area. Make sure you get into all the nooks and crannies!
5. Once air dried, use the disinfectant of your choice, follow all the directions thoroughly. Air dry, outside if possible. Sunlight also disinfects.
6. Rinse with water to remove any residue. Let air dry before replacing bedding, perches, toys, dishes, food and especially the bird itself.

Types of disinfectants:
1. Alcohols : These kill some bacteria. Good on glass, countertops, etc. Also used as a skin disinfectant. Should be used full strength. Goes by names such as ethyl alcohol or ispropyl alcohol.
2. Chlorinates: Kill a wide range of bacteria and viruses. Does not kill tuberculosis, chlamydia (psittacosis), or bacterial spores. Does produce some fumes. Never use full strength, bust be diluted. Either 1:10 or 1:32. Ask your avian veterinarian which dilution he or she recommends. Goes by the name Chlorox
®, or generic bleach.
3. Iodine: Kill yeast, fungus, some viruses, some bacteria such as E. coli, aspergillosis, salmonella, strep, staph, and pseudomonas. Does not kill polyomavirus or PBFD. Goes by the names Betadyne®, Vanodine®, and Providone®.
4. Ammonium or quats: Kill chlamydia, some bacteria, some viruses, fungus, aalmonella, pseudomonas, is ineffective against bacterial spores, E. Coli, yeast, tuberculosis, aspergillosis. Use diluted only. Usually 1:200 solution. Goes by the name Roccal-D®, Parvosol®.
4. Chlorohex: Kills yeast, gram-positive bacteria, fungi, some viruses, Newcastles, and aspergillosis. Needs to be diluted. Goes by the name Novasan® and Phisohex®.
5. Phenol: Kills fungi, tuberculosis, viruses, many bacteria, Salmonella, E. Coli, chlamydia, polyoma, reovirus, pseudomonas, and staph. Very toxic to cats and reptiles. Needs to be diluted. Goes by the names Lysol
® and Environ®.
7. Gluteraldehyde: Kills all pathogens. Can be used full strength or diluted. Goes by the name Wavicide
® and Sporocide®.
8. Wood tar distillate: Kills some bacteria. Needs to be diluted. Very low level disinfectant. Goes by the name Pine-sol
®.

For The Cage

Bedding Materials:

1. Grating :
needs cleaning often, should not be used with birds that suffer from night fright due to possible injury. Keeps the bird from going down to play in the bedding material. May or may not work that way.
2. Newspaper: No shiny color print due to toxicity. Cheap, easy to clean, can turn white bird black if the bird likes to play with the paper. Bird may shred it and toss it. Very few cases of ingestion.
3. Corncob: Looks pretty, but needs to be cleaned daily. Wet areas must be removed due to mold growth. Easy to toss, but doesn't always scatter when bird flaps its wings. Baby birds might ingest, causing crop impaction.
4. Crushed walnut shells: Can Have mold or pesticides. Might be ingested by baby birds, causing crop impaction. Looks pretty, but easy to scatter when bird flaps its wings. Also easy to toss.
5. Wood shavings PINE ONLY: Never use cedar or chlorophyll shavings. These can cause death!! Looks pretty as well, but easy to toss and when the bird flaps its wings it does scatter. Birds might also ingest, causing crop impaction.
6. Paper Towels: Very absorbent, soft, easy to clean. Bird can shred or toss. Very few cases of ingestion.
7. Paper pellet bedding: Looks pretty, but bird may try eating. Ingestion cases reported. Hard for bird to scatter by flapping its wings, but he can still toss.
8. Grass pellet bedding: Looks pretty, but bird may try eating. Ingestion cases reported. Hard for bird to scatter by flapping its wings, but it can still toss. Can have mold or be contaminated with pesticides.
9. Computer paper: Easy to clean, but bird may shred and toss. Very few cases of ingestion.
10. Citrus rinds: Can be contaminated with pesticides or molds. Looks good and smells good, however. Bird can toss and it can scatter easily when the bird flaps its wings. Cases of crop impaction reported.
11. Paper pulp: Looks like lots of shredded paper. Manufacturer claims even if ingested it won't cause crop impactions, but it is too new on the marked to know if this claim is true.
12. Nothing: The safest of all! However, thorough daily cleaning is a must. Bottom needs to be disinfected daily. Offers no soft footing or extra warmth for young or sick birds.

WARNING: NEVER USE SAND, GRAVEL, OR CAT LITTER! THESE WILL CAUSE CROP IMPACTIONS AND MAY KILL YOUR BIRD

Cleaning The Cage:
  • How often should you clean the cage? The answer will vary depending on the level of cleanliness you want or need.

  • If the cage is new and you suspect that it contains a zinc coating (toxic to birds) it must be wiped down first with a finegar solution. This will help to prevent toxicity.

Daily
Bottom of the cage should be changed. Fresh food and water (use alternate set of dishes and water bottles if you wish.)

Weekly
Daily routine plus wipe cage around with a good disinfectant, rinse with water after air drying unless directed otherwise. Perches scrapped of droppings or replaced. Toys need to be cleaned, replaced, or rotated as well.

Monthly
Daily routine plus weekly routine. Replace perches that cannot be cleaned. Everything in the cage needs to be thoroughly cleaned. Therapeutic perches cleaned, checked for unusual wear. Inspect cage for any rust, loose joints, peeling paint, rough spots on bars, or other troubles.

Bi-annually
Twice a year (minimum) the cage, especially a large one, needs to be taken outside, scrubbed down, disinfected, and rinsed once again. Small cages can be done more often in the shower or the tub. Perches should be replaced with new ones. Toys need to be cleaned or replaced. Check the bars for rough spots. If the cage is painted or powder coated, check to see if paint or coating is peeling or being removed.

Disinfecting:

WARNING: When cleaning the cage with any disinfectant ALWAYS READ THE LABEL CAREFULLY AND FOLLOW ALL DIRECTIONS!

There are different levels of disinfecting. Low level disinfectants (kills some bacteria, fungus and viruses). Intermediate level disinfectants (kills some bacteria, fungus, viruses, and tuberculosis). High level (kills all living organisms).

Steps to follow when disinfecting:
1. Soak any area that does not wipe off easily.
2. Clean with soap and hot water to remove all dirt and debris.
3. Rinse thoroughly. This does not kill any bacteria, fungus, etc. Dirt, debris, and soap residue can cut down on the effectiveness of the disinfectant.
4. Use a scrub brush or a toothbrush on any hard to clean area. Make sure you get into all the nooks and crannies!
5. Once air dried, use the disinfectant of your choice, follow all the directions thoroughly. Air dry, outside if possible. Sunlight also disinfects.
6. Rinse with water to remove any residue. Let air dry before replacing bedding, perches, toys, dishes, food and especially the bird itself.

Types of disinfectants:
1. Alcohols : These kill some bacteria. Good on glass, countertops, etc. Also used as a skin disinfectant. Should be used full strength. Goes by names such as ethyl alcohol or ispropyl alcohol.
2. Chlorinates: Kill a wide range of bacteria and viruses. Does not kill tuberculosis, chlamydia (psittacosis), or bacterial spores. Does produce some fumes. Never use full strength, bust be diluted. Either 1:10 or 1:32. Ask your avian veterinarian which dilution he or she recommends. Goes by the name Chlorox
®, or generic bleach.
3. Iodine: Kill yeast, fungus, some viruses, some bacteria such as E. coli, aspergillosis, salmonella, strep, staph, and pseudomonas. Does not kill polyomavirus or PBFD. Goes by the names Betadyne®, Vanodine®, and Providone®.
4. Ammonium or quats: Kill chlamydia, some bacteria, some viruses, fungus, aalmonella, pseudomonas, is ineffective against bacterial spores, E. Coli, yeast, tuberculosis, aspergillosis. Use diluted only. Usually 1:200 solution. Goes by the name Roccal-D®, Parvosol®.
4. Chlorohex: Kills yeast, gram-positive bacteria, fungi, some viruses, Newcastles, and aspergillosis. Needs to be diluted. Goes by the name Novasan® and Phisohex®.
5. Phenol: Kills fungi, tuberculosis, viruses, many bacteria, Salmonella, E. Coli, chlamydia, polyoma, reovirus, pseudomonas, and staph. Very toxic to cats and reptiles. Needs to be diluted. Goes by the names Lysol
® and Environ®.
7. Gluteraldehyde: Kills all pathogens. Can be used full strength or diluted. Goes by the name Wavicide
® and Sporocide®.
8. Wood tar distillate: Kills some bacteria. Needs to be diluted. Very low level disinfectant. Goes by the name Pine-sol
®.

Saturday, October 20, 2007

Board of Directors

2007 NWBR and BEBSO Officers

Chris "Birdman" Driggins --- Founder & President

Garth Noggle --- Secretary/Treasurer

Mike Shultz --- Vice President

Chris Dahlenburg --- Facilities Coordinator

Tracy Nichols --- Wildlife Coordinator

Scott Williams --- Officer

Associates





American Wildlife Foundation
P.O. Box 1246
Molalla, Oregon 97038
Telephone (503)-829-9567

or e-mail us at:
moreinfo@awildfound.org

Janette Ackermann, DVM
Chief of Veterinary Services

Dr. Ackermann graduated from the Mississippi State University School of Veterinary Medicine specializing in Zoo, Wildlife, and Exotic Animal Medicine. She has a Bachelors Degree in Zoology and a Masters Degree in Conservation Biology, and has completed internships in her field under James Carpenter, DVM, M.S., ACZM, at Kansas State University, and Stuart Porter, VMD, at the Wildlife Center of Virginia. Most recently she completed a three-year residency under Patrick Redig, DVM, Ph.D., at the University of Minnesota's well-known Raptor Center. During her extensive training in the field of wildlife medicine, Dr. Ackermann's work has been published in several veterinary journals, including Avian Medical Journal and the AVMA Journal.

Clark County Emergency Veterinary Serv
ices
6818 N.E. Fourth Plain Blvd S
uite # C
Vancouver Washington 98661
360-694-3007
(Donating Veterinary Services and Supplies Since 2001)




Macaw Landing Foundation
Jack Devine -- Founder

Mailing Address:
Macaw Landing Foun
dation
P.O. Box 17364
Portland, Oregon 97217

Phone: (503) 286-0882
Email: macaw@macawlanding.org

Avian Protection League
Linda McCoy (Founder & Director of Operations)
Email: linda@1mortgage.com









911 Parrot Alert

Members: 3772
Category: Parrots
Founded: Jun 16, 2004


Avian Medical Center
Dr. Marli Lintner, DVM

15952 SW Quarry Road
Lake Oswego, OR 97035
503-635-5672
avmckelly@yahoo.com

Dr.Marli Lintner, DVM received her degree in Veterinary Medicine from Oregon State University in 1984. She continues to work with upcoming graduates of OSU through their shadowing program. She really enjoys teaching and it shows! Dr. Lintner opened Oregon's first avian exclusive veterinary practice in the late 1980's and has been working in veterinary medicine exclusively with birds for over 21 years. She has worked with parrots of almost every species, as well as poultry, ratites, raptors, waterfowl and other wild birds. Her Veterinary experience with birds is almost unparalleled in Oregon. She has a great 'bedside' manner for people as well as patients, and explains complicated concepts in easy to understand terms.

She has been an active member of the Association of Avian Veterinarians for over 21 years, and attends the AAV International conference regularly. Her presentation of the master level class entitled "The Diagnosis and Treatment of the Pet Chicken" at the 2006 Association of Avian Veterinarians conference in Texas was well received and very well attended at both sessions. A recipient of the Mamie Campbell Award, she has volunteered extensively with The Audubon Society of Portland since 1986. In addition to performing veterinary services courtesy, she served as a Board member for 8 years, and served as President for 2 years.

Dr. Lintner is also a member of the Oregon Emergency Response Team for Avian Disease. The team has been preparing for the potential outbreak of Avian Influenza, and Dr. Linter is involved in the action.

Along with her family, Dr. Lintner lives with a Severe Macaw, a small flock of chickens, a cat, and two ponies. They have added a new dog to the family just recently. Chile, a Slender Billed Conure, also Dr. Lintner's, resides at the Avian Medical Center clinic.

Board of Directors

2007 NWBR and BEBSO Officers

Chris "Birdman" Driggins --- Founder & President

Garth Noggle --- Secretary/Treasurer

Mike Shultz --- Vice President

Chris Dahlenburg --- Facilities Coordinator

Tracy Nichols --- Wildlife Coordinator

Scott Williams --- Officer

Associates





American Wildlife Foundation
P.O. Box 1246
Molalla, Oregon 97038
Telephone (503)-829-9567

or e-mail us at:
moreinfo@awildfound.org

Janette Ackermann, DVM
Chief of Veterinary Services

Dr. Ackermann graduated from the Mississippi State University School of Veterinary Medicine specializing in Zoo, Wildlife, and Exotic Animal Medicine. She has a Bachelors Degree in Zoology and a Masters Degree in Conservation Biology, and has completed internships in her field under James Carpenter, DVM, M.S., ACZM, at Kansas State University, and Stuart Porter, VMD, at the Wildlife Center of Virginia. Most recently she completed a three-year residency under Patrick Redig, DVM, Ph.D., at the University of Minnesota's well-known Raptor Center. During her extensive training in the field of wildlife medicine, Dr. Ackermann's work has been published in several veterinary journals, including Avian Medical Journal and the AVMA Journal.

Clark County Emergency Veterinary Serv
ices
6818 N.E. Fourth Plain Blvd S
uite # C
Vancouver Washington 98661
360-694-3007
(Donating Veterinary Services and Supplies Since 2001)




Macaw Landing Foundation
Jack Devine -- Founder

Mailing Address:
Macaw Landing Foun
dation
P.O. Box 17364
Portland, Oregon 97217

Phone: (503) 286-0882
Email: macaw@macawlanding.org

Avian Protection League
Linda McCoy (Founder & Director of Operations)
Email: linda@1mortgage.com









911 Parrot Alert

Members: 3772
Category: Parrots
Founded: Jun 16, 2004


Avian Medical Center
Dr. Marli Lintner, DVM

15952 SW Quarry Road
Lake Oswego, OR 97035
503-635-5672
avmckelly@yahoo.com

Dr.Marli Lintner, DVM received her degree in Veterinary Medicine from Oregon State University in 1984. She continues to work with upcoming graduates of OSU through their shadowing program. She really enjoys teaching and it shows! Dr. Lintner opened Oregon's first avian exclusive veterinary practice in the late 1980's and has been working in veterinary medicine exclusively with birds for over 21 years. She has worked with parrots of almost every species, as well as poultry, ratites, raptors, waterfowl and other wild birds. Her Veterinary experience with birds is almost unparalleled in Oregon. She has a great 'bedside' manner for people as well as patients, and explains complicated concepts in easy to understand terms.

She has been an active member of the Association of Avian Veterinarians for over 21 years, and attends the AAV International conference regularly. Her presentation of the master level class entitled "The Diagnosis and Treatment of the Pet Chicken" at the 2006 Association of Avian Veterinarians conference in Texas was well received and very well attended at both sessions. A recipient of the Mamie Campbell Award, she has volunteered extensively with The Audubon Society of Portland since 1986. In addition to performing veterinary services courtesy, she served as a Board member for 8 years, and served as President for 2 years.

Dr. Lintner is also a member of the Oregon Emergency Response Team for Avian Disease. The team has been preparing for the potential outbreak of Avian Influenza, and Dr. Linter is involved in the action.

Along with her family, Dr. Lintner lives with a Severe Macaw, a small flock of chickens, a cat, and two ponies. They have added a new dog to the family just recently. Chile, a Slender Billed Conure, also Dr. Lintner's, resides at the Avian Medical Center clinic.

Perches

By varying the types of perches that your bird uses you can cut down on foot-related problems that may occur. Ideally, by using different types of perches that vary in thickness, texture and hardness, we are mimicking what the bird would use in the wild.

Most cages come equipped with 1 or 2 wooden dowels. While wooden dowels make excellent perches, they lack variation. Natural wood perches, however are what the bird would be using in the wild. They are not one dimension, varying instead from one point to the next. Most should be used with the bark still intact since this will allow the bird to strip the bark like they would in the wild. The other positive about natural wood is that there is more variation. Wood from one tree will vary in hardness from another species of tree. IApple tree perches are softer than mandrone.)

But what is safe and what is toxic? Most fruit trees are safe. The exception being cherry trees. These should be avoided since they are very toxic. However, those that support pitted fruit like peaches, should be used with extreme caution or avoided. The leaves, buds and bark need to be removed first. In addition, the wood needs to be thoroughly dried, since the sap (or green wood) is toxic. Wood from pitless fruits can be given with the bark on. Ideally, all wood should be dried and the leaves and buds removed. Wood from most nut producing trees are also safe to use.



Other precautions to take:

1. Never use branches from any tree that has been sprayed with any chemical, even chemicals that are supposed to be safe.

2. Branches must be cleaned. Use a good disinfectant, then thoroughly rinse and allow it to air dry. Do not wipe it off since this can spread germs.

3. Some trees have a high sap, pitch, or tar content. The sap from some trees can be poisonous although after the wood is dried it does not cause any problems. Branches should therefore be dried for several months before allowing the bird to use it. If you are unsure whether the sap, pitch, or tar can be toxic to your bird, do not use it.

4. Most branches are safe with the bark left on. Allow your bird to strip the branches. This is what a bird would be doing in the wild. It is not only enjoyable for your bird, but it is psychologically important to his well being. Encourage your bird to do so. Check with your avian veterinarian to make sure which barks are acceptable.

5. Check the branches for insects. Some insects can be poisonous when ingested by birds. Plus you don't want them loose in your house either.

6. Branches should not have moss or anything else growing on them. This could harm your bird.

7. Squirrels, birds, and other animals live in trees. The branches of these trees may be contaminated with their excrement. Avoid these trees and find some that were not homes to other creatures.

8. Do not use branches that you pick up off the ground. They could be rotted, contain worms or other insects, or even chemicals.

9. Many people use driftwood for perches. If this is used make sure that it is not rotted, oily (due to oil spills or other nasty things) or slimy.

10. Branches may be placed in the oven at 400 degrees Fahrenheit for 10-15 minutes, depending on the size and thickness of the branches to speed up the drying process. Be aware that this will cause a urine-like odor.

Other types of perches to use include rope perches and therapeutic perches. Rope perches are excellent since the mimic the swaying of a branch. Some birds prefer this very much and seem to enjoy the rope perches to the wooden ones. Also excellent are therapeutic perches. They come in different styles as well. Some are rough to touch and others are smooth. Therapeutic perches, when properly fitted, work to keep a bird's nails trimmed down naturally. The very rough ones should not be used as the main perch since they can cause sore spots. The smoother ones should be placed higher up the the other perches. Normally a bird's favorite spot is the highest perch in the cage. By placing the therapeutic perch as the highest perch, it will be used more often, thus producing the desired affect of keeping the hails trimmed down. Plus, therapeutic perches come in many colors, one just right for your bird! (That fashion animal!)

Perches

By varying the types of perches that your bird uses you can cut down on foot-related problems that may occur. Ideally, by using different types of perches that vary in thickness, texture and hardness, we are mimicking what the bird would use in the wild.

Most cages come equipped with 1 or 2 wooden dowels. While wooden dowels make excellent perches, they lack variation. Natural wood perches, however are what the bird would be using in the wild. They are not one dimension, varying instead from one point to the next. Most should be used with the bark still intact since this will allow the bird to strip the bark like they would in the wild. The other positive about natural wood is that there is more variation. Wood from one tree will vary in hardness from another species of tree. IApple tree perches are softer than mandrone.)

But what is safe and what is toxic? Most fruit trees are safe. The exception being cherry trees. These should be avoided since they are very toxic. However, those that support pitted fruit like peaches, should be used with extreme caution or avoided. The leaves, buds and bark need to be removed first. In addition, the wood needs to be thoroughly dried, since the sap (or green wood) is toxic. Wood from pitless fruits can be given with the bark on. Ideally, all wood should be dried and the leaves and buds removed. Wood from most nut producing trees are also safe to use.



Other precautions to take:

1. Never use branches from any tree that has been sprayed with any chemical, even chemicals that are supposed to be safe.

2. Branches must be cleaned. Use a good disinfectant, then thoroughly rinse and allow it to air dry. Do not wipe it off since this can spread germs.

3. Some trees have a high sap, pitch, or tar content. The sap from some trees can be poisonous although after the wood is dried it does not cause any problems. Branches should therefore be dried for several months before allowing the bird to use it. If you are unsure whether the sap, pitch, or tar can be toxic to your bird, do not use it.

4. Most branches are safe with the bark left on. Allow your bird to strip the branches. This is what a bird would be doing in the wild. It is not only enjoyable for your bird, but it is psychologically important to his well being. Encourage your bird to do so. Check with your avian veterinarian to make sure which barks are acceptable.

5. Check the branches for insects. Some insects can be poisonous when ingested by birds. Plus you don't want them loose in your house either.

6. Branches should not have moss or anything else growing on them. This could harm your bird.

7. Squirrels, birds, and other animals live in trees. The branches of these trees may be contaminated with their excrement. Avoid these trees and find some that were not homes to other creatures.

8. Do not use branches that you pick up off the ground. They could be rotted, contain worms or other insects, or even chemicals.

9. Many people use driftwood for perches. If this is used make sure that it is not rotted, oily (due to oil spills or other nasty things) or slimy.

10. Branches may be placed in the oven at 400 degrees Fahrenheit for 10-15 minutes, depending on the size and thickness of the branches to speed up the drying process. Be aware that this will cause a urine-like odor.

Other types of perches to use include rope perches and therapeutic perches. Rope perches are excellent since the mimic the swaying of a branch. Some birds prefer this very much and seem to enjoy the rope perches to the wooden ones. Also excellent are therapeutic perches. They come in different styles as well. Some are rough to touch and others are smooth. Therapeutic perches, when properly fitted, work to keep a bird's nails trimmed down naturally. The very rough ones should not be used as the main perch since they can cause sore spots. The smoother ones should be placed higher up the the other perches. Normally a bird's favorite spot is the highest perch in the cage. By placing the therapeutic perch as the highest perch, it will be used more often, thus producing the desired affect of keeping the hails trimmed down. Plus, therapeutic perches come in many colors, one just right for your bird! (That fashion animal!)